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the singularly most important fossil bed in the study of paleontology, and one of the richest in fossils from the Miocene Period, not to mention a collection of Native American artifacts that will dazzle any observer.
First discovered by James H. Cook, owner of the Agate Spring Ranch in 1887, Agate Fossil Beds quickly became the hotspot for the young science of paleontology. It consists of a bonebed from a prehistoric drought period, almost 20 million years ago. In 1892, Erwin H. Barbour of the University of Nebraska was the first scientist to research the “Devil’s Corkscrews” at Agate, fossilized formations which were later found to be fossilized burrows of a prehistoric rodent, Palaeocastor.
In August 1904, O.A. Peterson of the Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh found the bonebed with the help of Harold J. Cook, son of James H. Cook. Soon, scientists from Yale University, the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, and other institutions worked the fossil beds from 1904 to 1923. Many collections throughout the world boast Agate fossils.
The Cook family legacy extends beyond the fossil beds, though. James H. Cook was respected by Ogalala Sioux and Cheyenne Indians, and he counted among his close friends Chief Red Cloud, whom he met in 1874 during his travels as a frontiersman, hunter and scout. When Cook founded the Agate Spring Ranch in 1887, he invited his Indian friends to visit him. They received special permission to leave their reservations and visit, bringing with them special gifts to give the Cooks. These gifts of clothing and other artifacts eventually became the Cook Collection. Included in the collection are Chief Red Cloud’s ceremonial buckskin shirt, a hide with a pictograph of Custer’s Last Stand (painted by survivors of the clash) and the whet stone Chief Crazy Horse was holding when he was killed at nearby Fort Robinson, among many other notable and mundane items. What makes the collection particularly valuable is the first-person accounts that have survived with each piece. As each item was given to Cook his Indian friends told him the stories that went with them so that he could keep the belongings safe and preserve the history of the old ways. The National Park Service built the state-of-the-art museum facility in the late 1990s that houses the collection. It also serves as the conservator for the artifacts, many of which travel on loan to other museums.
The visitors center is open every day except Christmas, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., admission is $3 for adults. Two trails guide visitors to the location of the fossil discoveries, and are also popular with bird watchers in the area. As with almost all western Nebraska recreational sites, rattlesnakes are known to inhabit the area, and visitors are encouraged to stick to the trails and out of tall grasses.
If you drive north on State Highway 29, you’ll meet up with U.S. Highway 20, which leads straight east to Fort Robinson State Park, and the Trailside Museum.
Fort Robinson State Park
Fort Robinson is history come to life. It was an active military post from 1874 until 1948, and played an significant role in carving out the West. It was here that Crazy Horse met his end, mortally wounded by a soldier’s bayonet at the Guardhouse. Today, the Guardhouse and the Adjutant’s Office were reconstructed following archeological excavations and using written records. Other buildings in the complex tell the story of the Fort and it’s role in the West. There are many activities to enjoy during the summer months at Fort Robinson. There are open-air Jeep rides and nature tours aboard the Fort Robinson Express. There’s even fishing and horseback rides. Primitive camping is allowed year-round, and there are lodging and meeting facilities as well, on a reservation basis. Fort Robinson Inn serves three meals a day during the summer season, and snacks are available at the Sutler’s Store in the Activities Center. The Trailside Museum adjoins the park and is a University of Nebraska State Museum that interprets the area geology and natural history wonders.
For more information on park activities and lodging availability, call 1-800-826-PARK (826-7275), or visit www.ngpc.state.ne.us.
Toadstool Geologic Park
An afternoon drive through the Nebraska National Forest and the Pine Ridge, along U.S. Highway 20, will lead you from Fort Robinson to the town of Crawford and nearby Toadstool Geologic Park. From there, drive four miles north on Highway 2, then 15 miles northwest on Toadstool Road. Before you head out, it’s wise to ask the locals in Crawford if the road is traversable, especially after a rain storm. What makes Toadstool such a remarkable place to visit are the giant stone formations of sandstone rock that have eroded into “toadstools.” A self-guided tour takes you on a path to the base of the formations, where you can see fossils and prehistoric tracks that are one-of-a-kind in North America. At the trailhead, pick up a pamphlet and leave a donation for upkeep of the facility. Along the trail, play spot-the-markers and learn about the geology and history of the region. There are also several picnic sites where you and your family can enjoy a post-hike snack before the ride back home.
Toadstool Park is on federal land, is open year-round, and is free to visit. For more information, call 308-432-4475.
Family vacations are supposed to be fun and memorable experiences. And some of the best, and most affordable, can be found right in your own backyard if you know where to look. | LINKS: Farm & Ranch Museum Fort Robinson State Park Chimney Rock Scottsbluff National Monument
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